Friday, July 9, 2010

Sleeper Cars: A Relatively Pleasant Experience

The slogan of the South African long-distance train company Shosholoza-Meyl is "A Pleasant Experience."* As you may have noticed from my previous blog, this was anything but the case en route from Johannesburg to Port Elizabeth. Still, given the high price of flights from Cape Town to Johannesburg following the semi-final, I decided to risk it again. This time, though, I bought two tickets and rented out a sleeper car for myself.

This really was a much more pleasant experience. In general, it was very quiet, except for the occasional Argentinian whooping it up over Spain's victory over Germany. Next door to me was a group of four American chicks. I thought this would be cool, until I overheard them saying something about "Do you want to pray now or later?" and then gave up on attempting to party with them. I had my own heater which kept my compartment toasty. The food in the dining car was decent enough. I managed to get a lot of reading done in my book on the history of modern China. I now know more about Deng Xiaoping than I ever expected. But just remember, if you go carrying pictures of Chairman Mao, you ain't gonna make it with anyone anyhow.

Here's my compartment:



There was one slight problem: a massive delay where we just sat on the tracks doing nothing in the middle of nowhere. Apparently there was a problem with the locomotive. Now, call me crazy, but if you're hosting a World Cup, you'd think that you'd do a little routine maintenance. Those with flights to catch were freaking out, but frankly I had nothing better to do than read about the Cultural Revolution so I wasn't bothered.

If you're ever traveling in South Africa, I have a piece of advice for you: fly. Every time I flew, no matter what bargain basement airline I took, it went off without a hitch. The same can't be said for rail transportation. Though, if you've got the dough to ride the Blue Train, that might be worth a shot.

* This slogan sucks. It's about one step above "Knowledge is Good."

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